Back in the most beautiful place in the world, no fucking question about it. Andrew and I drove down here 5 days ago and have 4 days left. One day on, one day of is pretty much the perfect schedule right now. Its sharp so you need those rest days to grow back some skin. I still haven't been anywhere else then up in the Buttermilks area.There is a lot of different sectors you could go to BUT it feels like I could spend way more time in the Buttermilks before I get bored. The scenery and the amount of high quality problems makes this area last a long time.
The Climbing has been really good, it is really fun climbing with Andrew, both of us is pretty much psyched on the same things which is cool.
One of the things i'm the most psyched on now is Evilution. I did it to the lip a couple of days ago, so now its "just" the rest of it left. The hardest move is definitely the first move but you have a to do a V6 boulder at the lip which is about 7 meters up (picture above). Just have to see how it goes, probably going to set up a rope(top rope the hell out of it) to figure out the moves and also to save my back, ankles etc. No matter what, its by far the most beautiful boulder I have ever seen so I feel like I at least have to try to get up on it.
I have done a couple of V10:ish problems during this trip. Staind Glass is one of them which i'm pretty psyched about, one of those problems that after the first couple of tries is like, "mkay, this will go the next try", but instead turns in to a three day epic experience. One factor to this is definitely that the holds are pretty sharp, you want to save your tries so that you wont be fucked up for the rest of the trip.
I'm going to shut this down for now and drive up and try to find "Xavier's Roof", a boulder which I think is more or less under snow. I want to take the snow of and let the sun do the rest.
Tomorrow we are going back up to Buttermilks and Haroun and the sea of stories V12, the goal is to figure out all the moves, then we just have to put the 20+ moves boulder together.
Holy shit, this post turned out to be the longest one by far, and also pretty damn boring. Well, well, so it goes.